British Columbia • Washington • Oregon • California • Nevada
Concert of Wishes in the West
Planning this trip quickly turns into a concert of wishes. We have already visited all five of the major cities on this tour, but some of them were more than 15 years ago. Mount Rainier is a matter of our hearts and therefore set, while Lassen and Great Basin National Parks are on our bucket list for many years. Of course, we want to enjoy as much nature as possible in addition to the cities, so there is no way getting around the Pacific coast of Oregon.
The two films about the “Loneliest Road in America” and the “Extraterrestrial Highway”, both in Nevada, have piqued our curiosity. And in the desert near Las Vegas are “Seven Magic Mountains”, a masterpiece of modern art. The result is a journey that takes us from the Southwest of Canada across the three American states on the Pacific and through the deserts of Nevada to the gambling capital of Las Vegas.
We start our journey in Vancouver, British Columbia. We have three days to explore the city and region on foot, by bike and by car, including a trip to the Sea to Sky Gondola and to Canada’s most famous winter sports resort, Whistler. We then cross the border directly into Washington and continue on to Seattle. The main destination this time is the Olympic Sculpture Park, a very special art park with a view of Puget Sound. Of course, we also spend some time at the Space Needle and at Pike Place Market.
The next day, we visit Mount Rainier National Park in glorious weather. A hike at Sunrise, a trip to Box Canyon and finally an overnight stay in the historic Paradise Inn right at the foot of the majestic mountain bring back memories of our very first trip to North America. We have also visited our next destination, the volcano of Mount St. Helens, before. It’s fascinating to see how nature recovers after the devastating volcanic eruption in 1980. We follow the Columbia River upstream and cross it at the windsurfers’ paradise of Hood River; in the afternoon we visit some of the numerous waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge.
Welcome to Oregon
On our second visit, we experience Portland, Oregon’s large city on the Willamette River, in a completely different way. We stroll through the streets of a city which describes itself as “weird”, visit the smallest park in the world, eat doughnuts at the iconic Voodoo Doughnut and enjoy the hustle and bustle of Pioneer Courthouse Square while having a coffee. Once again, we follow the course of the Columbia River, now to its mouth, where we look forward to the huge Astoria-Megler Bridge and the Astoria Column high above the city.
We spend the next few hours driving on US 101 along the Pacific coast. In the beach resort of Seaside, we just want to see the Lewis and Clark statue, which marks the end of their trail, but end up in the middle of a parade of vintage cars. Famous Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach is hidden in mist this time, and in Tillamook there is a new visitor center for the well-known cheese factory. A short side trip takes us to Oregon’s capital, Salem, where we particularly like the beautifully designed Riverfront Park. Back on the coast, we enjoy a whole day in Newport with lighthouses, bizarre coastal sections, towering Pacific waves, the impressive Yaquina Bay Bridge and a colony of sea lions. We even see whales, although not within photo range.
Cities, Nature, Art – Have a look…
We continue further south. We pass numerous lighthouses and bridges, hike through a huge field of carnivorous plants in the Darlingtonia State Natural Site, have a coffee in the best coffee shop in Florence and drive for quite a while through the sandy landscape of the Oregon Dunes. At the Arch Rock Picnic Area we see plate-sized starfish for the first time, and in the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor we more than once stop to admire the magnificent rock formations and the tree trunks lying on the beach and looking like the remnants of a giant’s game of Mikado.
In the State of the Golden Gate Bridge
Our first destination in California is Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park; the giant trees, which are up to 2,000 years old, are always impressive. Once again, we cross southern Oregon for a short time; Medford is the starting point for further adventures. In the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument we walk 2.5 miles on the Pacific Crest Trail (out of a total of 2.653 miles); the view of Mount Shasta on the way south is magnificent. After a detour to Hedge Creek Falls, we leave the interstate and head through the wilderness to Old Station, where we spend the night in a tiny cottage.
Next day’s destination is Lassen Volcanic National Park. Here, around Lassen Peak, there are beautiful small lakes such as Lake Helen, black lava hills, dead trees and, as the main attraction, the Bumpass Trail, which ends after half an hour at Bumpass Hell. In a bubbling basin there are hot springs, steaming fumaroles, bubbling mud holes and glowing sulphur deposits; phenomena that immediately remind us of Yellowstone. Back in the Central Valley, we drive south for quite a while until we finally cross the Golden Gate Bridge in thick fog – how could it be any different?
Against all predictions, modern San Francisco is clean, cheerful and colorful. We stroll across the sprawling Crissy Field, visit the very different districts of Chinatown, Nob Hill and Haight-Ashbury, watch the sea lions on Pier 39 at Fisherman’s Wharf, look down on the city over the colorful houses of the Painted Ladies and spend half a day in the huge Golden Gate Park. Cable Car, Coit Tower, Alcatraz Fortress and dozens of outstanding sculptures – the list of sights seems endless.
Nevada, lonely and surprising
After two days in the big city, we have to move on. After leaving the greater San Francisco Bay area, things get quieter. Via the Carson Pass, we reach South Lake Tahoe, an expensive summer and winter sports resort on the border of two states. Nevada, with its omnipresent casinos, begins directly behind the lake. Carson City, the small capital of this huge state, is just a few minutes away.
What follows is pure solitude. After a detour to the former mining town of Virginia City, we return to US 50, which comes along with the slogan “The Loneliest Road in America”. The highway stretches 310 miles through the Great Basin Desert, with only four small towns along the way. In Fallon, we enjoy a cool drink in the historic Overland Hotel, and at Middlegate Station, we have lunch in the shade of the few trees. Stokes Castle in Austin, a dilapidated tower without any charm, is already considered a tourist attraction, and coffee is served from our thermos, as there is no café here. Eureka has exactly three historic buildings, and Ely at the end of the stage at least has a modern hotel. From here, we take a trip to Great Basin National Park the next day.
If it was lonely on the way to Ely, it gets even lonelier the next day. Once again we drive through the desert, meeting a car every 15 minutes. Thoughts of a car breakdown we quickly push away from our minds. After three hours, we reach Tonopah, a supply station in the middle of Nevada. The colorful Clown Motel, the historic cemetery and the haunted Mizbah Hotel are definitely worth the detour.
The journey continues on a road that is signposted as the Extraterrestrial Highway. A few scattered houses mark the village of Rachel, home to the Little A’Le’Inn, where everything is about UFOs and extraterrestrials. Of course, we are not allowed to enter nearby Area 51, a top secret restricted area of the American army. Continuing the journey, we pass an Alien Research Center and E.T. Fresh Jerky, and then the spook is over.
Without even noticing, we changed the desert, which is now called Mojave. We hike one last trail in the Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge; a city for 250,000 (!) residents is planned in Coyote Springs, but so far there is only a town sign and a golf course. Today’s highlight is driving through the Valley of Fire with its reddish-brown rock formations. In the afternoon, we finally reach Las Vegas, the gambling city in the middle of the desert; in the meantime, the thermometer reads 43 degrees Celsius.
We spend a whole day exploring the mega-themed hotels on the Strip. Glamorous shopping arcades alternate with modern works of art, chic cafes and gambling machines. The Eiffel Tower, Ferris wheel, floral splendor, water features and flamingos – each of the hotels has a different attraction. The small monorail that connects consumer temples of Las Vegas takes us back to the hotel in the evening. Our last major destination is Ugo Rondinone’s “Seven Magic Mountains” in the desert outside the city limit. Our journey through two countries and five states finally ends after 3.418 miles at Harry Reid International Airport.
Route Description
Tag/Day | Von/From | Nach/To | Route |
---|---|---|---|
01 | Vancouver Airport (YVR) | Vancouver | 000 m / 020 km |
02 | Vancouver | Vancouver | 000 m / 000 km |
03 | Vancouver | Vancouver | 000 m / 015 km |
04 | Vancouver | Vancouver | 000 m / 300 km |
05 | Vancouver | Enumclaw (WA) | 000 m / 305 km |
06 | Enumclaw | Paradise | 150 m / 240 km |
07 | Paradise | Kelso | 200 m / 320 km |
08 | Kelso | Portland | 180 m / 290 km |
09 | Portland | Portland | 000 m / 000 km |
10 | Portland | Tillamook | 180 m / 290 km |
11 | Tillamook | Newport | 160 m / 260 km |
12 | Newport | Newport | 040 m / 065 km |
13 | Newport | Gold Beach | 185 m / 300 km |
14 | Gold Beach | Medford | 170 m / 275 km |
15 | Medford | Old Station | 200 m / 320 km |
16 | Old Station | San Francisco | 275 m / 440 km |
17 | San Francisco | San Francisco | 000 m / 000 km |
18 | San Francisco | San Francisco | 000 m / 000 km |
19 | San Francisco | Carson City | 240 m / 385 km |
20 | Carson City | Ely | 350 m / 565 km |
21 | Ely | Ely | 145 m / 235 km |
22 | Ely | Alamo | 330 m / 530 km |
23 | Alamo | Las Vegas | 160 m / 260 km |
24 | Las Vegas | Las Vegas | 000 m / 000 km |
25 | Las Vegas | Las Vegas Airport (LAS) | 045 m / 070 km |
Total | 000 m / 5.485 km |